Siena, part 2

The main cathedral in Siena is another extraordinary work of Italian Gothic, like the Duomo in Florence.   Like seemingly every church in Italy, though, it is a collage of different styles as things were added and changed over the centuries.   For example, in the facade, the original was the multicolored stone gothic, but the gold mosaics  were actually added in the 19th century, even though they refer to a Byzantine style.

The interior is striking, not the least for its over the top stripes (alternating bands of dark and light marble).

The cathedral is also known for its floor, which has elaborate carvings.

Ceilings and domes:

The music library ceiling  (many beautiful chant books were on display):

The lower half of this photo is actually a fresco painted to look three dimensional:

A column from the Baptistry, located below:

And wonderful intarsia:

I think that this church was the most dazzling of all the ones we saw.  In addition, next door there was a museum of works from the church, including even more dazzling Sienese paintings.

This "Maesta" from Duccio was formerly on the altar of the Duomo:

More from the museum:

Siena, Part 1

Our last stop on this trip was Siena, and the contrast with Florence was fascinating.  Siena is really a medieval city; by the time the Renaissance appeared, Siena had been decimated by the Black Plague, and had lost her wars with Florence.  Not that much happened  afterwards, so that most of the city is as it was in medieval times.  It's a hilltop city, with hills everywhere, and mostly pedestrian streets.  Sienese art, as well, remained stuck in the Gothic style, without much influence from the Florentian artists down the road.   Which, to me, is a good thing, as I really have come to like pre-Renaissance art.   So we headed straight for the Pinocoteca, which features an astonishing collection of Sienese paintings beginning from the mid 13th century.   What a dazzling array of wonderfully colorful and expressive paintings!  It was fascinating to see painting emerge out of Byzantine styles, as artists tried various new ideas, some of which seem to be leaping straight ahead to the twentieth century.   Our pleasure was increased by the absolute quiet of the museum; for most of the time we were there, there were only 2 other people on a floor of about 20 rooms.    Take that, Uffizi!   Here are some highlights, mostly details..

This detail in a painting shows exactly the ceilings we have been seeing in the churches:

Everywhere gold...

Strange visions:

Musicians abound...

Color!

These pictures can only convey a portion of the impact of seeing these paintings in person, in full size and brilliant color, all of them dating from the 13th through 15th centuries.