Wednesday 2 December 2015

Riverside Park South

I frequently walk with our dog Maggie in Riverside Park in the upper 90's, appreciating its beautiful curving landscape shapes and old trees.   The beauty is for the eyes only, though, because the Henry Hudson Parkway runs right through the western edge of the park, and the closer you get to the water, the louder the sound is from the highway.  In fact, it is quite unpleasant when you are close to the highway, which has constant heavy traffic (not to mention the fumes).
The park has an interesting history.  It was created from rocky wasteland in the late 19th century by the designers of Central Park.   At that time, the railroad tracks of the New York Central were right next to the water.  In the 1930's, New York's automobile-crazed czar of public works, Robert Moses, rebuilt the entire park (a WPA infrastructure project).   Moses covered the railroad tracks so effectively that most people don't know that they are still there, but, in turn, he added one of his trademark scenic parkways.   At that time, the park ended in the south at 72 St. where the New York Central rail yards began.   By the 70's and 80's, the railroad had ceased to use the yards, and the property became ripe for development.  The rights were purchased by a certain well-known arrogant real estate developer (whose name will not sully these pages), who promptly proposed to build the world's tallest building there.  Luckily, said developer ran out of money, and West Siders protested the whole scheme.   Many years later, a compromise was reached, and apartment buildings were built, with the developers required to create a new park, Riverside Park South, in the land next to the river.  The buildings turned out to be horrible, but, against all odds, the park turned out very well.  (It was mostly finished around 2005, with other phases still to come, in theory.)  
I had never seen the park (it is really out of the way), so on a chilly but sunny November afternoon, I went for a walk.  The design is quintessential early 21st century landscape design; it resembles the famous High Line in many ways.   There are various decaying structures which reference the area's past uses as a train yard.  There are plantings that mimic a wild, natural state.  There are recreational facilities, and a beautiful new pier which goes way out into the water.  There are sculptures, cafes, and a variety differently shaped pathways.  You can even walk down to the "beach".  The only drawback to the whole thing is the elevated highway which looms above it and behind it (though it does help to hide the ugly glass condos).  The highway is supposed to be buried at some point, who knows when.   But in the meantime, the elevated structure of the highway has its own beauty, to my eyes.

Looking up at the viaducts from the northern end of the park:


Details of the viaducts:


Red and green:




OK, I really like these viaducts:



The view of the park from under the viaducts:


Under the viaduct:


 Rotting piers:


View of the George Washington Bridge from the end of the new pier:


A sculpture under the viaducts:



Plantings and an old freight loading platform:


The same platform, with New Jersey in the background:


Detail of above:


Another sculpture, next to the water:


Vegetation next to the water:


There is even an old locomotive:


More remnants of piers:




Sculptures, elevated highway, more condos to come;




Fall colors!

Walking back from the river, you see this beautiful old ConEd building:



A visit to Riverside Park South is highly recommended!