Saturday 30 March 2013

La Defense, Parc St. Cloud

Yesterday I went to both La Defense and Parc St. Cloud; two examples of French constructions on the grand scale.  La Defense, a forest of skyscrapers on the western edge of Paris, was conceived as a place where there could be high-rise buildings outside of the center of Paris.  It is mostly drab and ugly, but the Grande Arche building, constructed in a direct line connecting to the Arc de Triumphe, is a mesmerizing construction



There are also some very odd things around like this truly large finger, about 100 feet high



From there I took a tram to the Parc St. Cloud.  This park was one of the favorite subjects of the photographer Atget, who created many memorable photographs of the park in the 1920's.
The park was designed by LeNotre on a grand geometric scale; the chateau that went with it was destroyed in the Franco-Prussian war in 1871.  The park features both long vistas and a number of statues; the statues being frequently in a state of decay.






Vistas and cone-shaped trees:




Before I did all this, I went to the Museé Cernuschi to see an exhibit of art from Shanghai in the period 1840-1920, when artists in Shanghai were confronted by the impact of modern trends in Western Art.  There were a number of fascinating, almost quasi-abstract painted works.   I don't know very much about Chinese art, but even I could see the extent to which the artists were overturning age-old rules of how something should be depicted.  The museum itself is in a beautiful mansion in Paris's 8th Ar., an area I read about in Edmund de Waal's fascinating book, "The Hare with the Amber Eyes", a story about, among other things, a rise and decline of the very wealthy Ephrussi family, who started out in Odessa, and established themselves in both Vienna and Paris in the 1870's.

While I was walking in this area, I heard a car horn honk, and two people in a car started waving at me frantically, as if they were happy to see someone they knew very well.   I had no idea who they were, and I tried to convey this to them, but they continued in their enthusiasm.   Do I have a double in Paris?


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