Bucharest 4

After 6 days of walking the streets of Bucharest, I am more and more fascinated by what I see.  Despite all the degradations I have described in an earlier post, there is a tremendous richness and variety of architecture.  There are so many beautiful old buildings, some decrepit, some restored.  There are dilapidated ruins next to glossy new buildings, concrete Communist era monstrosities next to 18th century Orthodox churches, and an amazing number of ornate late 19th century French style villas and very large commercial and governmental buildings. Apparently a newly prosperous and independent Romania in the 19th century sent all its would-be architects to France to be trained, and it shows.   And like many Communist countries, the state never got around to tearing down old buildings in the same way that more prosperous democracies did.  I think that if Romania becomes more and more prosperous in the next 20 years, Bucharest will become one of the more beautiful cities in Europe.  Though the ugly parts will still exist.

Here are some more photographs from the streets;

This is the National Theater, an enormous edifice that was the pet project of Mrs. Ceaucescu:

A bank building from the late 19th century:

Most of the wiring seems to be outside on the walls:

I like these windows:

Examples of decay:

Paris, anyone?

This is the house that Vera grew up in:

Typical decaying concrete apartment blocks and wires:

Communist heros:

More overgrown:

Ceaucescu's "grand boulevard", with the palace in the distance.  The sidewalks on the boulevard are quite empty, and there are few stores.  People go elsewhere.

Bucharest also has many small Orthodox churches that have survived, along with several synagogues that have been restored.  The interiors are striking; the Orthodox churches are all painted with frescoes inside, while the synagogues are decorated with non-representational patterns.

 Churches:

After looking at this for a while, it started to turn into an Agnes Martin painting:

These are modern stain glass windows.  Art Nouveau?

 Synagogues:

This is the Great Synagogue of Bucharest.  Ceaucescu tore down all the old buildings around it, and it is now nestled among parking lots and apartment blocks.   At least it is still there!

The pictures below are from the interiors of two synagogues, the Great Synagogue and the Templu Corol:

 I visited the George Enescu house, which was the composer's home.   He had married the daughter of one of Romania's wealthiest men.   This was his house:

Inside were a number of interesting mementos of his career.   But the Enescus actually lived in a smaller house in the back.   His room:

Their bathroom: