Sunday 7 April 2013

Paris Wrapup

Even though we are in Berlin, I still have a few more Paris things to talk about.

One of the things I love about Paris is the sheer variety of stores and storefronts that you encounter as you walk about. I don't know of any other city which sustains such a variety of seemingly marginal retail establishments; I don't know how it is possible.   I know of at least 5 different stores that sell the kind of wooden games and puzzles that I love; this time I noticed a store that sold nothing but things made out of pistachios, and, an old favorite, a store which sells only corkscrews, old and new.   And, of course, coming from a culture where bookstores are almost extinct, there is the seemingly infinite number of bookstores, devoted to anything obscure and with no air of any kind of profitability.   What a treat!

A store for very chic medical uniforms:


On one of the last days I went to see a show at the Fondation Cartier-Bresson, established by the late photographer.  The show was from the collection of Howard Greenberg; a stunning collection of prints from the 1930's onwards.   In an age of the increasing quality of photographic reproductions in books, it is wonderful to be reminded of the visual qualities of a well done silver gelatin print.  There were several by Josef Sudek and others that I loved.

No reproductions.


The stairway in the Fondation:


While I was in Montparnasse, I ended up walking through the famous cemetery.  I wanted to see the grave of Samuel Beckett, but somehow the cemetery map was upside down, which upended my sense of direction, so I couldn't find it.   (What sort of a marker would he have?)   I did see the grave of Serge Gainsbourg, who clearly has an active fan base:


And the grave of someone who was clearly about turkeys:



Another thing I saw in Montparnasse was the Jardin Atlantique.  A kind of "conceptual" garden as only the French can conceive, it was built in the 1990's above the tracks of the Montparnasse Station as part  of a large development.  Now it looks fairly decrepit, especially in winter.  Odd sorts of sculptural elements abound, as do fenced off areas where things have fallen apart one way or another.




And there was the facade that I had seen portrayed at the Park Avenue Armory show and posted a picture of.   (A facade made famous in a photograph by Andreas Gursky).

Gursky:


Armory show:


  Taken by me, it looks like this:


And here is another colorful facade of a non-famous building in Montparnasse, some sort of government building (they have those).



I also went one day to visit an exhibition at the Czech Institute.  The show was an homage to the work of the great Czech artist Jiri Kolar, primarily known for his collages  (and "crumblages").   100 different works by different artists, and I like some of them a lot.  Here is one from my iPhone:





On our last day in Paris, although it was still very cold, at least the sun came out, and people were suddenly sitting outside in cafes, even the blue-haired set:


Until the next time!

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